This greater bullet velocity allows for greater effective range, all things being equal.Īdding a short, Choate muzzle device (A2-style flash suppressor) adds some desirable mass at the end of the barrel, and gives a much better sight picture. Retaining the OEM barrel length allows greater bullet velocity as opposed to cutting the barrel. Even if the muzzle rifling is damaged, a simple re-crown or a counterbore will restore accuracy. With the advent of dual-strut barrel stabilizers, there is seldom a need to cut-down pencil barrel minis. Time marches on, and we have more alternatives open to us nowadays than in times past. Meaning no offense to above poster, but modern technique varies with previous practices. Most often, a simple re-crown or perhaps a counterbore will work.įWIW, I have an OEM Pencil-barrel 186-series Mini-14, with Dual-Clamp Accu-Strut, and some other mods, that will do 2 MOA all day long, with decent ammo.ĭon't believe folks that say even Pencil-Barrel minis are inherently inaccurate. In rare cases, the barrel might have to be shortened. If the muzzle is damaged, then fix that problem first. Single-Clamp devices being not at all as effective as Dual-Clamp Struts, as per mfr. Most advocate adding a Barrel Strut, and I concur, FWIW.Īssuming an undamaged muzzle, there are Dual-Clamp Accu-Strut devices available for all barrel configurations, such being FAR more useful with earlier "Pencil-barrel" rifles. Don't know of many savvy Mini-14 users, nowadays, who advocate cutting the OEM barrel. Cutting the barrel of Minis used be considered useful, but that was before aftermarket barrel struts became available. Cutting the barrel on any rifle reduces the velocity of the projectile, and must be carefully considered. Cutting any Mini barrel is irreversible, and NOT always advised. Without knowing such, expert advice is difficult. OP has not stated his Series of Ruger Mini rifle-usually the first 3 digits will suffice.
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